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Vietnam - Hanoi and Halong Bay

23rd August - Museum of Ethnology

We arrived in the city of the capital city of Hanoi actually feeling ok at 7am. This time it was Jenna’s turn to wait with the bags, Kat and I, neither of us with any sense of direction, set off in search of the hostels we had circled in our guide or other cheap accommodation that we happened to come across.  Obviously the map we had was crap (nothing to do with us being bad map readers. he he), but somehow we managed to do ok.
After a little while we were approached by a touter, we were skeptical of course, but he was offering us a cheaper hotel than any of the crappy hostels we had been looking at so decided it was worth a shot.  We both hopped on his bike, careful not to get exhaust burns on our legs (every other tourist we notice seems to have acquired one).  The whole way Kat yelling "slow down" and "look at the road not at us", it was pretty funny, I just kept my eyes closed and hoped for a painless death! After enduring our hair razing journey, we arrived at the 'Queen Hotel’; it was very nice, only 2 pounds a night, with hot shower, included breakfast and free internet.   Sometimes, i thought to myself, it is worth giving these people the benefit of a doubt. We headed back to Jen, collected our bags and all moved our bags in up the 1,000 steps to our room.
Once in our room, we couldn't resist a little nap, then freshened up and headed off to get some advice.  The question of the day was: "Should we visit Halong Bay or Sapa?"  Sadly we had left ourselves too little time to do both, because foolishly (but easily) spending an extra two days in Hoi An.  Oh well a good excuse to come back one day I suppose!
At each agency we could help but be extremely skeptical.  All they way up Vietnam we had heard so many horror stories or people being scammed: Not getting what they paid for, being dropped off in the middle of nowhere, boats loosing their bags, misplacing passports and countless others  In the end we decided to go to the beautiful bay of Halong, for a three day boat trip. We actually booked through our hotel too, they were so confident we would get what we paid for, that we could pay when we got back! Seemed like a fair deal, so even us skeptical girls didn’t decline this!
Now, Hanoi has been inhabited for almost a millennium, it is the capital city.  But the part I was most excited for was the fact that it is famous for its bakeries, delicious cakes and pastries, I hadn't seen a desert in so long, with my exceptionally sweet tooth and love to snack constantly, I knew my time here could be dangerous!
To make the most of our afternoon we decided to visit the 'Museum of Ethnology’, opened in 1989.  Basically it is a valuable centre for the exhibition and the preservation of cultural heritages of this multi-ethnic country (54 ethnic groups in all). Apparently the Museum has collected 15,000 artifacts, 2,190 slides, 42,000 photographs, 237 audiotapes, 373 videotapes and 25 CD-ROMs. I wanted to come here in order to learn about the ethnic groups, their cultural diversity and the uniqueness of each group and region, as well as traditional values throughout Vietnam. 
 
The Museum is divided into two parts: an indoor and an outdoor exhibition. The indoor part was composed of the exhibition building, office, research centre, library, storage, technical lab and auditorium. I really enjoyed it, and found it so interesting, For once it had lots of information that we could read or watch as part of a video clip (In ENGLISH), all about Vietnam’s history, ways of life, crafts, performances and all about ethnic groups and instruments. If only I could remember all I had learned, it was certainty interesting at the time.
The outdoor exhibition was apparently to highlight different types of houses in all parts of Vietnam. However we spent so long looking around the inside, we didn't have time to see the outside.  It was raining anyway so I wasn't too bothered. However we did have time to visit the little gifs shop that they had there.  It was beautiful and filled with reasonably priced souvenirs.  Kat and I found a selection of water puppets to play with and I couldn't resist buying a myself a little red buffalo.  It is strange, but will remind me of the brilliant time I had at the water puppet show.  He is red, with interesting flowers on and gold leaf on his horns had a little bird perching on his back and when you pull his tail his head moves.
That evening we went for a wonder around the town; calling in at interesting shops and stalls along the way.  Shortly two sweet little Vietnamese, street seller women approached us, one of the traditional tones, carrying the sticks with baskets attached, with fruit in.  We had been warned about this scam, but before we knew it they had plonked the triangle hats on our heads and the stick across our shoulders.  We took the opportunity to take a photo so didn't mind paying over price for a small bag of fruit.  Oh well, the picture is pretty funny so I didn't mind too much.   After that we found our way to quaint restaurant called the 'Bach Gilli' and all enjoyed a delicious Vietnamese meal.
 
24th August - Temple of Literature, Vietnam Fine Arts Museum and my third male attack!

I woke up early , headed down for my free breakfast of a French stick and jam and then decided to make the most of the free internet, I actually spent morning on it, 'trying' to  catch up with blog (I’m actually only a month behind now ..ha ha)
I got chatting to an Israeli boy on the computer next to me and before I knew it he had invited himself and his two friends along with us for the day.  We found our way to the main street and hailed down motorbikes to the 'Temple of Literature'(Van Mieu) , which is Hanoi’s most revered temple complex.  It was basically Vietnam’s first educational school for royal family members, and it was later opened to talented students as a university. My guide book informed me that it was built in 1070 in honor of Confucius. 
When we entered through the huge and beautiful gate the first thing I set my eyes on was the huge pond, either side 82 stone stelae mounted on tortoises holding records and results  of state examinations held at the national Academy between 1442-1779.  We then passed through 'gate of success' into main temple building and impressive ceremonial hall, we amused our selves by pretending we were royal members, prancing around the halls or laying out as though we were animals on the sacrificial plaque pretending to be sacrificed.  I know that is rather childish but to be honest we were getting a little sick of our highly questioning Israeli company, and hoped they would ‘want’ to move on with out us.  Before we left we stopped off at the interesting souvenir shop, there were more water puppets for sale (none as nice as my buffalo) and I restrained myself from getting any more to add to the collection.
Unfortunately we couldn’t find a way to the rear or the building or the courtyards due to construction going on.  (I was annoyed to find out that there was a way through that we hadn't seen, but by this time it was too late)  Never the less we then headed off in our in search for ‘Fine Arts Museum.  As we traipsed the streets with our hard to understand map we came across a café called, 'smile', it was much like the 'friends' restaurant that we had dined in, in Cambodia, whereby it takes underprivileged kids in off the street, giving them education and teaching them how to be marvelous chefs.  I chose a delicious pasta dish, and a mini fresh fruit crumble for after....yum
Thankfully, after we had finished our ‘friends’ had decided to go off by themselves, so we went off to see some art. It was all held in a colonial style musty three-story block, which opened in 1966 after serving as a boardinghouse for French girls living in Indochina.
It showed the evolution of Vietnamese art, in a series of pretty well presented exhibits.  It was easy to make our way around, most things were labeled in English (which is more than I can say for other art galleries I’ve been to) they were also in chronological order!
  There was an impressive collection of Stone Age and Bronze Age artifacts on the third floor. Also there were examples of ceramics, silks, statues, silks, lacquer ware, paint, lino prints and all sorts, including the much seen fantastical bodhisattva with 1,000 eyes and arms, a 16th-century statue from the Hoi Ha Pagoda.  There were also several stone statues and wooden sculptures lining the open-air hallways too.
Kat and Jen headed off for a leg wax, so I decided to go back to our hotel alone ( a decision which I later regretted).  I gave the motorbike driver the address of the hotel and he nodded and off he sped.  After driving around a very busy and congested area that I didn’t recognise he stopped and asked for directions.  After about 10 more minutes of driving around in circles, he pointed to a random building and said “here it is”, and motioned for me to get off.  “No”, I responded and showed him the address again.  He nodded his head and we accelerated off again.  By this time he was beginning to get frustrated, so turned to me and doubled the price we had originally agreed.  I said no, and got off the bike, holding out a small sum of money.  Again he demanded double to what we had agreed.  I argued that it was his fault that he had got lost and that he still hadn’t even dropped me off at my hotel.  He slapped away my money and continued to argue with me.  By this point I could feel my blood boiling and put my money into my bag and begun to walk away.  With this he swung for me, slapping then twisting my arm and reaching for my bag.  I shouted in his face and continued to walk on.  He then jumped off his bike and pulled my hair.  I slapped him and begun to walk faster.  He continued to follow me, but I was certainly giving him no money now, especially as I thought that he would probably steal my purse.  There was Vietnamese on lookers all around me but no one came to my rescue, most people didn’t seem to batter an eyelid and some young Vietnamese men were actually laughing at the ‘entertainment’.  To be honest I was petrified but was determined not to show it.  Luckily, seconds later I turned round to see a middle aged Aussie couple.  Hastily I approached them and quickly told them what was going on.  Suddenly the motorbike driver backed off, turned nice as pie, saying “I know they way, get back on my bike”...no way!!!  I stayed with the couple till he had gone then found my way back.  I was surprised that the Aussie couple hadn’t walked back with me to be honest but I suppose they had their own day to get on with.  I felt so shaky, and was relieved and close to tears, when I got back to my room and closed the door.  In retrospect I should have just given him the money he was demanding, I know that when my safety is concerned I shouldn't be so stubborn, but they do take the piss sometimes!
Due to our huge lunch we didn’t go out for dinner that evening, instead Kat and I went for a wandered round (and a sneaky slice of cake).  It seemed like ‘real Vietnam’ once the sun had gone down.  There were motorbikes everywhere, the streets were so packed, it was crazy.  I couldn’t believe how busy it was.  There were no foreigners out where we were, just locals rushing about, women selling things and men getting drunk on every corner in all the little road side, makeshift drinking places.  I really wanted a set of interesting soup/noodle bowls, with chopstick holders in them, but I just ended up just getting provisions for trip tomorrow. (I hope they sell these bowls when I come back into Asia in the New Year).   

25th August - Halong Bay

Halong Bay itself is a body of water in North Vietnam, east of the capital, Hanoi. The bay consists of a dense cluster of limestone islands, covered in places with thick jungle. These islands of various sizes rise out of the ocean spectacularly and cover a vast area. Many of these islands are in fact hollow and allow visitors to explore some of their enormous caves…I couldn’t wait.

I awoke very early in the morning due to the crashes of thunder in our room. The rain was pounding down onto the metal roof and with each lightning strike the whole room was lighting up.  I usually like thunder and lightening, but I must admit I was a little worried being on the top floor of a very high metal roofed building. 
We had the usual French stick breakfast and hot tea in a glass and boarded the mini bus.  There was the usual issue of there being no room, but luckily the hotel had given us the opportunity to leave our big bags there so we had more room than others, I still had to have my knees wedged into the seat in front all the way though.
Along the way we stopped off at a workshop, where we could look at all the crafts they were selling and grab a drink.  I restrained myself from buying an embroidery picture.
Over four hours later we arrived at Halong city. A group of about 15 of us was shown to our ‘luxury junk’, it was a very impressive looking boat, and just like the pictures.  It was the only one with sails up.  It was beautiful, we had a huge deck wit sun loungers and tables and chairs, a large restaurant and lovely little cabins with our own bathrooms.  It was so posh; again I felt out of place in my stretched baggy top and dirty scruffy shorts and flip flops.
We set off out across the waves, shortly a huge lunch was served.  There was so much.  It was delicious too.  I had copious amounts of various meats in sauces, mixed vegetables and so much fresh sea food…I could get used to this!
First on the agenda was ‘Sungsot cave’, so we all dragged our very full bodies off the boat up hundreds of steps to go and explore.  There was a huge opening and once inside there were hundreds of stalactites and stalagmites all lit up in beautiful colours by strategically placed spot lights.  We spotted a rock that looked like a turtle and another one that was shaped like a lions head.  Apparently these animals guard the cave and keep out evil spirits so I felt quite safe, once out of the cave, I noticed what an amazing view it was from up there.  (I think I had been too full to notice on the way up)  We could see right across the bay, spotting our beautiful boat and the vast sea all around, as I breathed in the air from the China Sea, we begun our walk back to the boat.
Shortly afterwards we got taken to a dock that was covered with kayaks.  Straight away I was so excited, remembering my “Camp Walden’ days and a canoe instructor in America.  Kat and I got handed our rater large and smelling of mildew, life jackets and were shown to our Kayak.  It was fun and so beautiful and we paddled through the still waters.  The whole place was surrounded by mountainous rocks.  I kept thinking that it looked like the perfect setting for a movie, however thankfully that would never be allowed because of the place being a national park.  In no time at all mine and Kats skinny weak arms were feeling the aching of doing some work.  I thought I would be stringer after lugging my bag around for the past three months, but obviously not.  My favourite place was going under a rock called ‘Luon’, We could hear everyone’s conversations as they passed through.  When we realized that our voices echoed, we couldn’t help ourselves shouting random phrases that we knew in different languages, making no sense at all to anybody who heard us who actually spoke the chosen language no doubt.   We had a well earned break in little alcove then it was time to head back, I was relieved by the time we got back, I could really feel the lactic acid build up in my weak, pathetic arms!
Once everyone was back on the boat we were off again, we anchored just off ‘Titou Island’ with the invitation to go swimming, it was much later than planned and the sun was beginning to set in the sky and most people declined, but I couldn’t resist.  We jumped off second level of our huge boat; it was so high (at least 10 feet).  I soon regretted my choice to jump when I hit the water and my bikini top came off and wrapped around my head, I bit my lip and made it bleed and went so far down, I was actually worried I wouldn’t make it back up.  Once I had sorted myself out and caught my breath I began to swim.  The current was so strong current could believe how hard we had to swim, literally if you stopped for a second you would be half a mile away from the boat so you had to swim with all your mite.  My poor, aching arms.
We got out just in time to watch the sun disappear over the horizon, it was a beautiful sunset of red, orange and pink; the sea was rippling in gold. We were all handed a fresh, tropical fruit platter and then headed in one it was dark for a nice shower.
Dinner that evening was much like lunch, lots of sea food and different meat dishes mixed with vegetables, noodles and rice.  Again I ate so much; helping yourself is not good for the figure. I just didn’t know when to stop, but I guess I was hungry all that walking, kayaking and swimming.  (if I say so)
We spent that night on the top deck to chat and appreciate surroundings. There was no breeze, so was very hot, but was so beautiful.  The moon and stars were shining so brightly that they lit up all of the water; it was like we were on a sparkling glittery carpet.  When I looked across the bay I could see a few other boats in the distance, with there little twinkling lights, but couldn’t hear a thing.  It was so tranquil and peaceful, it was pure luxury.  I spent most of the evening with another older English couple, called Sally and John-Paul who had sold up their house to come away for a year.  Maybe that is what I would have done if I hadn’t done all this now.  Later we were joined by an Irish couple, another English couple, an Australian and a Canadian guy to all drink vodka and coke long into the night.  Retired to my cabin alone, it was extremely strange; it is the first time that I had been in a room alone to sleep in a year.  I actually felt afraid; I was convincing myself I could here strange noises, oh that vivid imagination of mine! 

26th August – ‘Thein Long Cave’, ‘Monkey Island’ and a night on ‘Cat Ba’.

I woke up early, after just a few hours in bed.  I could hear people above me preparing breakfast.  I was up and out in minutes and wandered up to the deck; I was glad to experience a magical special or the early morning mist, like nothing I had ever seen.  By 7.30 more people had joined me and we all headed down to the dining room for cold fried eggs.  By 8am we were on the move again.  I headed back up to the top deck to read, however, it begun to rain before long so back inside for me. 
Around 9am after a very bumpy bus ride from the bay we arrived at ‘Thein Long Cave’.  It was amazing.  It was actually glittery inside; it was like the walls were covered in diamonds.  Maybe they were!  Our guide was a small boy who leapt around the cave like a little animal.  I couldn’t understand how he did it.  The ground and walls were so slippery, it was hard enough for us to even walk, slowly and clinging to the walls.  The best part was the opportunity to play the stalactites and stalagmites with a stone, it actually sounded really good and it echoed all around the cave for all to hear.
We all enjoyed a delicious lunch and then back on the boat to monkey Island. Basically it is a deserted island in the middle of nowhere, inhabited only by monkeys.   As we hopped off the boat onto Monkey Island's beach, I was glad to see that there was just a few other people there and we pretty much had the place to ourselves.  Before long we noticed what looked liked a family of monkey's in the trees. We had been told to be careful as they can often scratch and bite. One tourist got a bit too close and ended up running for cover from the largest dominant monkey as I and most of the other people laughed, other people were getting their lunches stolen, the English couple from our boat was threw them the leftovers of their coconuts, which they un-timidly waltzed down the trees to collect, bearing their teeth and letting us know that this food was now theirs. I got pretty close, but I must admit I certainly didn’t want to pet these little ‘cuties’.
I was so excited for our hike that we were supposed to have that afternoon, but when we got there basically our tour guide said it was too hot, not many people could be bothered and the guide and put everyone else off by stating how dangerous it was.  It didn’t however put Jenna and I off.  We got shown the way and off we headed. 
Now dangerous was certainly an understatement, this climb was lethal.  We had to climb up shear rock face and scramble on jagged volcanic looking rock, they were so hot and sharp, we needed our hands for support but when we placed our hands on the sharp red hot rocks it was extremely painful.  Again, i was wearing my flip-flops, I don’t know why I am never prepared for things like this, I should be aware by now that my trainers (however hideous) would be useful for days like this.  The whole way up I was also a little nervous that a monkey would come scampering out to attack me beads of sweat dipped from my head on to the leaves below, from both fear and the stifling 40 degree heat, with 95 percent humidity!  I could hear my heart beating faster and faster, I was sure a surprise attack was imminent. I was listening intently for any monkey noises or rustling from the bushes, I was on high alert, poised but also aware that I could easily slip to my death.  (or a painful scrape at least. he he)
One we reached the top, we were drenched in sweat but it was well worth it, the view was astounding, we could see people swimming, I even spotted Kat sunning herself on the beach.  We could also see the islands  on the other side, our beautiful boat and the amazing jungle all around. We stood for a while, taking in the views while Eagles circled above the cliffs on the island presumably searching for some afternoon dinner, before we became desperate to get in the sea and headed back down.  It seemed even harded getting back down, it took a while and we both had a few bumps, scrapes and burned hands and feet by the time we reached the bottom.  As soon as our feet hit the sand we stripped off and ran into the lovely cool water.  It was amazing and cooled our bodies swiftly.  We were still feeling adventurous so passed all the other swimmers and went out quite far.  The best part was lying on our backs relaxing in the cool water with the warm sun on our faces and schools of fish leaping over us.  It sounds like something that only happens in books and movies, but it is true, flying fish jumped over us numerous times.  It was magical.
That evening we all settled into a Hotel on ‘Cat Ba Island’.  The island encompasses a forested zone, costal mangrove, freshwater swamps, beaches, caves and water falls.  In 1986 the North East side was designated as a national park (as I said before), apparently it consists of 350 limestone outcrops adjacent to Halong. 
I took my third shower of the day, then met everyone for dinner on roof.  Again it was the usual spread and I again made a bit of a pig of myself.  We then a walk around the rather tacky looking town, There were tights all the way down the water front, they looked to me like Christmas lights, and seemed a little odd.  There was absoulutely no breeze so before long we headed back to our air conditioned rooms to relax after another very long day.   
27th August - Back from Halong Bay.
Having air conditioning is novelty so Jenna and I decided to make the most of it.  Putting it on full blast.  However I woke up freezing, I hadn’t wanted to turn it off so during the night I had actually got up and put on my anorak and wrapped my sarong around my head.  We had both felt the same so were happy to turn it off and open the windows to let some warmth in.  We then rushed upstairs for the  bit of breakfast, I found myself a cream caramel, some fresh fruit, one piece of bread (only the crust had been left) and some pancakes.  I was delighted that there was some food left and even more happy that it wasn’t just Vietnamese style of soup and rice. Even after almost a year in Asia, it still makes my stomach turn thinking of eating this sort of thing for breakfast..
We all got back on the boat, unfortunately it was raining so we couldn’t, spend our last journey sitting on the deck.  I was very glad that the rain had waited until then though.  I just sat inside, wrote some postcards at last and opted out of swimming in the rain.  We went to a hotel for lunch, I actually feel a little sick of the same foods after three days of it.  I know that I mush have put on weight after being such a pig.  I couldn’t actually eat very much though as it was only 11.30am, I was still full from breakfast; I have been constantly full on this trip.  I won’t eat for a week now….maybe!
The  three hour journey back to Hanoi, I had the usual complaints, my knees jammed into the seat in front, the roads extremely bumpy and I actually got rope burn from sticking to plastic seats, and with each jolt and swing got ripped off the seat again...just gets better and better doesn't it?  However I can't let the journey taint what a wonderful time I had.  Halong bay was the perfect antidote after too much time in cities.  It was definitely a rewarding three days where I spend my time indulging on far too much food and travelling through the thousands of whimsically sculptured islands anchored in the aquamarine waters! Beautiful.
Once we got back, Kat and I went book hunting, we found a few good second hand places, there is always these sorts of things where tourists go, which is good for me because I can sell off all my read books and with the money I got I could have another for free!  We had Planned to go to the circus that evening too, but alas after trapsing across the city to get there it was closed. So we just headed back to our guest house for an early night and a good chance for me to start my new book. 

28th August - Ho Chi Mins Mausoleum and presidential palace

Up early to attempt to miss the queues in order to pay respects to the late Ho Chi Min, otherwise known to the Vietnamese as 'Uncle Ho'.
When we arrived in 'Ba Dinh' square; the same place that they read the decoration of independence on 2nd of September 1945, we were met by hugest line ever.  It reminded me or when we went to the Imperial palace in Japan for the emperors speech.  Apparently the line is this long every day of the year here!!
The Mausoleum was pretty big, infront of the building was a Vietnam flag, and surrounded by the snaking queue as the people weaved among the rare ornamental trees and flowers planted to represent the different regions throughout Vietnam.  Once joining the queue, we got our bags and cameras taken but I was pleased at how fast it moved, within an hour were inside the building getting pushed and barged by guards with what looked like harpoon guns.
Inside everyone moved very quickly, probably because there were no cameras, so people weren't faffing about trying to take the perfect shot.  Once I looked inside his glass coffin I was surprised at how much he looked like a wax work.  But I suppose he had died in 1969, and he must have been coved in something pretty wax-like to preserve him.  (Not very nice to think about, yuck)
Once we were hurried out we went to look round his house, it was actually kept how it was found.  Through glass doors we got to see his work room and  bedroom in his little house on stilts.
The Palace used to be known as 'Indochina's General Government Palace'.  However when 'uncle Ho' lived and worked there from 1954-1968 it changed to  'Ho Chi Mins Mausoleum and presidential palace'.  Everyone loved and respected him very much, he seemed to be a good man, doing lots of good for the poor and to generally help Vietnam the best he could.
The day was good, there wasn't many tourists, so Jenna and i with our fair hair  probably turned out to be the main attraction.  School groups were asking for photos and a group of girl actually followed Jenna stroking her hair for most of the way around the gardens. This is what it must be like to be celbrities.
We spent all afternoon relaxing and  blogging.  Then Jen and I spent last few  pennies on some pasta dinner, I phoned Brian then back to pack.  I was so excited I could hardly sleep that night...We are going back to civilisation!

29th August - goodbye Vietnam.

Goodbye, land of bomb craters, shimmering paddy fields, sugar white beaches, beautiful cities, vulnerable yet overwhelming pagodas.  Also to cyclos and hustle and bustle of the markets and crazy roads.
I have had so much fun as we travelled up the long thin strip of coast hemmed by rugged mountains, passing coical hatted farmers with their buffalo along the way. Sometimes I found it so hard to describe the beauty i saw, words simply couldn't describe. I loved the Mekong, the delightful sand dunes of Muni, shopping in Hoian and the watter puppets.  I will always remember the fantastic architecture and classic landscapes and good food, but the horrendous traffic, sometimes rude people and the women in pj's all day long! It is a shame that we couldn't get to Sapa with its traditional hill tribe villages and amazing landscapes that I saw in the pictures, but, as I said...next time! 
Anyhow I hope that you get the gist and can make the most of my appallingly written and rushed blog. Today, apart from saying goodbye was reasonably uneventful, we got a taxi to airport with a couple of English boys that I had got chatting to yesterday (we spontaneously meet up with these guys later too).  The flight was nice, usual we slept most of the way and were over whelmed when we got to Bangkok airport to find a BOOTS, we all stocked up on the products we missed then made our way to our hostel! 

• Posted by emily1183 on 09/09/2007.
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