Cambodia - Siem Reap.
25th July - Arrival at Siem Reap, Dead fish Tower.
I felt so hung over this morning, we packed up and on the way out of our hotel one of the staff offered me a piece of a very unusual fruit that looked a little like a large purple tomato, inside are white segments that tasted like a cross between a lychee and a date. We then headed off to catch our luxury bus (Sarem came with us too). The air conditioning was not very good but anything is better than the bus we caught to Phnom Penh. We were actually provided with sandwiches and a cold drink for free too. After five hours we arrived in the beautiful town of Siem Reap. The place seems very restful, filled with pavement cafes, shady tree lined boulevards and lots of restaurants. Serem said that that the place is now becoming very touristy and that prices are rising by the day so I was pleased when we found a very pleasant but perfectly reasonably priced place to stay called the 'mandalay Inn'.
That evening we headed out to the night market and in search of a nice place to eat. The streets were buzzing with people and we kept bumping into people that we had met before in Thailand or other parts of Cambodia. We eventually settled on a place that was recommended in the guidebook called 'Dead fish Tower', it was a wacky place with all different levels, all of which you could see the stage where dancers and singers preformed. There was also a crocodile pit with about 30 miserable looking crocodiles in it, you could pay to feed them, but they looked so cramped and miserable we just kept away (Steve Erwin would be turning in his grave). We all enjoyed a nice meal and then headed into the lively town center to 'The Temple Bar' for some drinks.
I had an interesting talk with Sarem about Cambodian life and he informed me about its 'No Rules' system. It is all so hard for me to comprehend. He is a tuk tuk driver, yet he has never even had to take any driving test. He informed me that anyone can drive at any age and no one needs to wear helmets, have a number plate and to make matters worse there is no such thing as a speed limit! He also told me that people can drink at any age, and yes you guessed it..... There is no rules on drinking and driving!
I was also interested to hear about the probability of most Cambodians having to get into arranged marriages, but the father of the bride has to receive a huge gift for the giving of his daughter to her new family. Then once they are married neither one is allowed to spend time with their friends, all time must be spent in the home or working (what a nightmare) Of course women and men are not at all equal either, and they certainly can't drink or get tattoos (although this seems so through out Asia). It is always interesting making friends with the people who actually live in these countries. Although it is just one mans opinions and points of view, but I certainly found it rather interesting!
26th July - Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom (Bayon) and Ta Som.
The four of us woke early, ate a huge breakfast (to last us the day) and headed off to the Angkor temples. We bought ourselves a three day pass (which was actually very expensive) and got our pictures taken. Jenna and I thought it would be funny to swap our IDs and see if anyone noticed. Needless to say they didn't. Sarem thinks that all westerners look the same. How funny :)
First we went to the very famous and iconic Angkor Wat. It was huge and filled with intricate carvings with five magnificent towers which sored above my head. I was so excited to actually get inside and I can certainly say that this particular temple will be etched in my memory as long as I live. After walking round for a hour or two looking at all the carvings and reading the plaques with all the history and explanations as to what things were, we decided to climb one of the towers (the tallest one in the center). Sarem sensibly chose to wait for us at the bottom, with most other tourists, but we couldn't resist the view. I know I can be known to exaggerate a little, but this really was the steepest set of stairs I had ever seen in my life. They were so worn down that each one can't have been much wider that three cm. There was four stair cases to choose from, and luckily there was one with a Bannister. Needless to say we chose that one. We cling on for our dear lives as we went on our tip toes up the sheer climb, nervously letting people coming the other way pass. By the time I got to the top I could not look down and my legs were shaking so much. I was relived when I could get off the stair case. At the top there were a couple of locals burning incense and praying and a wild monkey. He was actually really friendly and was even tame enough to let me stroke him, much to my delight. (even though Jenna and Kat keep telling me that I am going to get Rabies!) One of the Cambodian men at the top decided to tell me about how dangerous the stairs were and about how many people fall. He even told me about the hundreds of people that have fallen to their death. I must say I was not very delighted at the thought of heading back down those stairs. Kindly he gave me a stick of incense and I prayed to Buddha for our safe return to the bottom of the stairs. Luckily we all made it (I think it helped that we did all take off our flip flops for better grip)
As the hot hot sun rose in the sky, we left the shade of Angkor Wat and moved on to Angkor Thom. The gates were topped by huge statues of the gods and demons, but inside was the amazing Ba-yon temple. It was fantastic (you know the one with all the faces calved into the rocks) They were fantastically well preserved. I was amaze to learn that it took 6 centuries to complete the temple. What a long time, but well worth it.
I can summarise to say that my first day going around the temples was brilliant. It was incredibly hot (40 degrees) and extremely dusty but simply breath taking. That evening we all enjoyed a meal in one of Sarems recommendations called the 'Khambodian Kitchen', it was really nice and very cheap Cambodian food. We were exhausted so then all headed off for an early night.
27th July - East Baray Section: Bantea Kdei and Ta Prohm.
We actually lay in until 9am this morning, despite planning to be out before it stars to get really hot. During breakfast Sarem announced that he had to head back to Phnom Penh, because of problems at home, but that he would meet us again when we went back. We said our good byes then headed off to the East Baray Section called Bantea Kdei. It was constructed in the mid 10th century and was still actually being used until the 1960's. As a working monastery it accommodated 12 thousand people who lived and worked in the grounds and there were also 80 thousand people who worked locally to service and maintain the complex. It was crazy to believe that just 40 odd years ago people lived there. The place was relatively unraveled by nature but most of it seemed to have collapsed (probably due to poor stone and the building techniques).
We entered through a cruciform gopura topped with Lokesvara faces. Again the walls were very intricately carved, but this time with elaborate leaf motifs and female divinities. Sadly most of the Buddhas that were on the columns had worn away.
We then look the long walk to Ta Prohm where enormous Kapok trees grow from terraces and walls. There were massive roots clinging to the walls; framing doorways, prizing apart stones. It was really amazing to see and so hard to understand how trees could possibly do that. Most of the 39 towers had collapsed, but you could still get inside, but only on one level. It was like a maze. It was such fun clambering over all the collapsed masonry and ducking through all the caved in galleries. Apparently 260 holey images were installed here but as I said most of them have worn away.
This is where the actually filmed parts of "tomb Raider" and at some parts I actually felt like Lara Croft, with all that ducking, diving and jumping. The place was swarming with Koreans (they get everywhere- ha ha). So again we delighted in shouting Korean to each other to shock them!
As the afternoon shadows lengthened, after posing for may photos by all there trees, we headed back to our tuk tuk in hope of seeing the sun set over Angkor Wat, but alas we were too late. It was 5.10 and they don't let people into any more temples after five :( Oh well we will do it tomorrow!
28th July - Bantea Srei, Kbal Spean and a none existent sunset.
Today we came prepared. All around the temples there are little kids begging. Their parents want them to bring back money but the kids themselves seem more than happy with a pen, some fruit or some sweets. I had given a pen and my last few bits of chewing gum to some little boys yesterday who shared all the pieces of gum with each other, so sweetly. This morning I decided to go equipped with a large bag of jelly pots with a little bit of fruit in side. Of course I had to sample one, and I thought they were pretty good. The children we gave them out to were delighted. Sometimes it is hard to remember that these little children just want to play. It is easy to just think of them as pests when they are begging for money or pestering you to buy something. But when you see their big smiles when they receive a treat you remember that they are cute little things who really seem to have no child hood at all. It is very sad to think and makes me miss my kids in Korea :(
Anyway today we first headed out to Bantea Srei, which is quite a way out of Siem Reap. It was built of rose-pink sandstone, it had many doors, the walls were elaborately decorated with floral motifs and Ramayana scenes. There were three sanctuary towers in the center and even an inner mat. It was incredibly hot again, so after a short while we joined a group of people sat under the shade of a tree to watch some victims of land mine accidents play some traditional Cambodian music. These people were amazing and some of them were really badly injured and deformed. A confident little girl decided to dance for us all. She was great as she performed a little bit of a traditional Apsara dance.
Shortly we headed back to the tuk tuk for a very dusty and bumpy ride to the jungle. I am not joking, the roads were so dusty I had to cover my mouth with a tissue just to be able to breath and when we arrived we were literally orange. After washing my face, I used a face wipe and it was still covered in red dust. It can't be good for our lungs! We then headed off on a short trek through the western section of the Kulen Mountains called Kbal Spean. The beautiful and very well hidden place was last used as a hill retreat in the mid 11th century. It was amazing, there were sacred linga an Hindu gods carved into the river bed. I was shocked at how clearly you could still see it after all these years. Apparently doing this would bless the water before it ran down in to Angkor. I tried to take so photos, but they really didn't do it any justice at all, again this will have to be something that I ingrain into my mind. It was beautiful. At the end of the stream there was a waterfall, so after our dusty ride and our trek up the river Jenna and I couldn't help ourselves stripping off and going in for a waterfall body massage. It was total luxury. On the way back we passed hundreds of nuns and monks coming to worship (it is a good job they didn't come along earlier to find us in the waterfalls)
We then endured our journey back down the bumpy, dusty track (which took an hour) then visited another temple that is used in the tomb raider films. There was not really much to see of the temple but once we had made the step climb to the top we turned around to see a fantastic birds eye view of Angkor Wat. We had planned to wait up their to watch the sun set, however no sooner as we had reached the top it began to rain and the sky became black with clouds. We saw some cool lightning but decided that we were not going to see the sunset in this weather so swiftly made our way back down before the steps got to slippery (although they were pretty slippery already)
I felt a little disappointed but I had had yet another fantastic day so I couldn't really complain. That evening we decided to just have a lazy night, dinner in the hotel and then I stood at reception for about an our on the phone to Brian, do doubt boring him with all my stories.
29th July - The cultural Village and a night out.
It being a Sunday, lots of the places that we had wanted to see (other than of course the temples) were closed so we decided to go and see 'The Cultural Village'. Basically it was advertised to be Cambodia in miniature, and had been constructed to provide the local people a glance at the countries influences, historical milestones and cultural heritage. When we arrived there were eleven houses showing traditional activities. First we went to a wedding ceremony, although I didn't have a very good view it was very beautiful and pretty interesting. Next we went to the 'Kola Village' where Burmese people performed a peacock dance. It was hilarious seeing all the people rush from performance to performance in order to get the best seats, in order to miss the manic rush from then on we decided to see every other performance. We also visited a rater scary ghost house, which was a bit like the 'London dungeons' whereby it showed all the tortures they had used over the years. It was pretty horrific and actors dressing up kept jumping out allover the place. I didn't like it at all and was relieved to get out. Again it was too real for me.
Our day was cut short during a show in the 'Phnorng village' whereby we were happily watching tribes people show how they worship animism and performing their water and fire master choosing show, when it began to rain. The show continued despite all the Cambodian people running away for shelter. We were among a few left when the heavens really did open and within seconds we were drenched. It was pretty hilarious running through the warm rain all the way through the village to go home. It is so different getting drenched here, it is a warm rain so is almost like having a shower in our clothes. We plodded round the museum on our way out, soaking the floor with our dripping bodies (much to the disapproving looks of the security guard) and then headed off in a tuk tuk back to our guest house.
We decided to spruce ourselves up and have a proper night out, so we put on some of our very few 'nice' clothes, (the ones that don't smell and aren't stretched or stained) and went out for a steak dinner, followed by a few too many cocktails and an evening of Kat and I dancing away on the table tops of the 'Temple Bar'
30th July - Artisans Angkor: School and silk farm.
Kat and I found it a little bit of a struggle getting up early considering that we hadn't got in until about 4.30 that morning. We had some breakfast, which made us feel a lot better then headed off in search of 'Artisans Angkor', after lots of looking we eventually realised that it was literally behind our guest house. It is a school for underprivileged children and teenagers whereby they are taught trades and crafts. The first place we went to was full of deaf people, where they learn sigh language and work with wood, sandstone, copper leaf etc to make the most beautiful traditional statues, pictures and Buddhas. It seemed to be a very lengthy process and most of the things being made took weeks to make, waiting for days for varnish or lacquer to dry and all the careful carving. These people are so patient, I don't think that I would be able to do something that took so long. After wandering around the school we arrived at the gift shop. I couldn't stop myself from buying a beautiful picture of a Apsara dancer in lacquer and copper leaf. It was a little expensive but I know that my money was going towards a good thing and I could appreciate the time and effort it had take to make it.
At around lunch time the school put on a free bus to 'Les Chantiers Ecoles Silk farm'. I know I went to a silk farm in Chang Mai, but this one was much more informative. Firstly we saw the fields of mulberry bushes, they use the leaved to feed the worms because apparently worms that eat mulberry leaves produce the best silk! Then we headed into the worm shed. The whole place was surrounded by a small moat of water and inside all the table legs that the worms were on, were also in bowls of water. Our guide told us that this was to stop the ants and insects climbing up and causing problems...How clever. He also informed us that 1 cocoon produces up to 450 meters of silk and that it is the outside of the cocoon that produces the 'thick' silk and the 'smooth' silk comes from the inside. They are boiled to separate the two.
We were then shown all the natural dies that they use. There were things like bark, coconut, leaves and flowers. Some of the colours produced were so vibrant. We were also shown how they tie-die the thread BEFORE it is woven, so to keep the pattern it had to be woven so perfectly. I couldn't believe it. All these things we take for granted, I would have never have guessed how complicated they were. The girls on the weaving machines were so fast and together. I could have watched them for hours in ore and amazement. They told me that each scarf takes 48 hours to make (that is 6 eight hour days), so it was hard for me to believe that the can sell them for as little as 50 pence at the markets. It made me feel guilty at how little I paid for my scarf when I now know the amount of effort they put in.
That evening we ate our dinner in a lovely little Italian we found, run by an Italian guy who had moved to Vietnam, then popped on the Internet for a catch up then headed back to our guest house for the daunting packing experience once again.
I really wanted to go to Kratie tomorrow, to see some Irrawaddy fresh water dolphins coming along the Mekong river but due to the bad weather a head we may not even be able to see them anyway, so decided to just head back to Phnom Penh and save our money, I am actually quite excited to go back to a place we kind of know and also to see our friend Sarem.
- Posted by emily1183 on 24/08/2007.
- emily1183's site
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